Chapter 1 Choices

People make mistakes even with their love of the gas hogs like in this real example. The frame cracked in two because the owner used curb weight limits on a regular cab truck when he should have used GCWR on his crew-cab model. This a common mistake because auto-makers list vehicles by curb weight and claim IMHO an exaggerated figure on how much can be carried or towed. This leads to people thinking that if the vehicle can tow 14000 lbs an 8000 lb camper is ok.

I will be presenting real figures so you the reader can make educated decisions on converting your ride to an EV. Some of the choices to be made are: Purpose (commuter, light work, recreational, heavy work), Range (60km,180km,320km,600km), and more…

In this issue, I focus on North American models although if you can find correct information on foreign model like Toyota, Nisan, Volvo, and many others, they too might be possible. In the conversion of trucks, most are 2wd with the motor mounted back at the rear differential. An inline gear box matches the motor to the differential. The engine compartment can be changed into a storage bay. For trucks with 4wd, the motor is mounted up front replacing the engine and couples to a modified transmission. The transmission in this case will have just a single gear for both forward and reverse. On 4wd there wouldn’t be storage or much of it up front. Replaceable Gcell batteries of 42A, 84A, or 144A will be fit under the truck and between the frame rails. The entire pack has 2 switchable battery banks with 8 replaceable Gcells per bank. While you drive on one bank the other may be solar charged and while parked both can be solar charged. Gcells are quite manageable at 34 lbs, 68 lbs, and 116 lbs. Sizes are 10”x10”x6”, 10”x10”x12”, and 10”x30”x6” which are comparable to the old lead acid types.

Not everyone is the same:

    Businesses need vehicles with capacity and range to fit their needs. Some place the oness on owner / operators like couriers, taxi drivers, food and prescription delivery, and transports. Others shoulder the burden with vehicles of their own.
    Many people are in hard times and saddled with loans on their current ride. A ride that in 6 years will be worth 50% or less of what they paid for it. In 11 years won't be worth anything.
    Others also in hard times are fighting to make ends meet while nursing their fully paid for ride. A ride that eventually must be replaced and when that time comes may be worth nothing.
    New entrants to the market are at the mercy of credit bureaus and lending institutions. In many cases the option is to buy an old junker for cash or go through a loan shark paying outrageous interest.

Going electric

    Has become just as mind boggling as keeping a roof over your head. I hope to shed light on the topic to help.

    The pages that follow address these choices.

Chapter 2 The Grand Plan

     My grand plan began as a plan to convert my motorhome to an EV-Motorhome, augment this with a Solar-Electric tricycle for short commutes, and obtain a vehicle to convert into a Solar-electric vehicle. The intent was to fully document these ventures for others who may wish the same course of action.
     Then suddenly came NEWS of the Canadian Government's climate actions plans. I was doing my part to honor my mother's wish that I make my Motorhome into an EV and pass on my knowledge. It's no longer about me, I am part of a bigger picture. A picture that will see all of North America being net zero by 2050.
     Net zero by 2050 means all forms of power, heating, transportation will be from renewable resources and devoid of carbon production. Canada was one member of 150 countries back 1958 that promised to end coal production and use by 2000, end use of climate damaging carbon emissions by factories, transportation sector, homes by 2030 and in so doing save our planet.
     On a federal level, the government is offering people whom wish to save money on their home operations incentives such as rebates on :

1. Change out hot water tanks (on gas) to electric instant hot water
2. Cover the cost of Solar panels for their homes in 10 select regeons if they cover the installation costs
3. Carbon levy rebates to low income households
4. Installation of heat pumps

      Locally we had a local government that wanted to honor Canada's agreement to the world and end coal by 2030, put more resources into green energy and stop subsidizing petrochemical but the people voted them out in favor of a government that promised to increase coal production and use, give more money to rich oil barons, and ask the people to petition for an end to go green and save the planet.
     The auto-makers know that EV vehicles will replace the ICE by 2040. Both USA and Canadian governments have made this clear. Even the EU & China have moved this way already. Political opposition parties have always been a thorn to progress that is why virtually nothing has been done for 66 years. Heck it only took 69 years from the first airplane to putting a man on the moon. I am a problem solver at heart, instead of saying it can't be done, let's say let's find the way to get it done.
We have 16 years and the clock is ticking, 24 million vehicles need to be converted in Canada and 440 Million in the USA. The alternative is that 464 million vehicles become junkyard trash with no market for them. The count goes up on average by 3% per year! The auto-makers are in their glory right now, they see that they have 500,000,000 potential sales in the next 16 years with no regard to the same number of trashed vehicles worth nothing. To address these concerns: (red=bad green = hoped)

1. Federal Government:
   • 24 million owners must replace their vehicles
   • 24 Million vehicles become scrap which is environmentally disastrous
   • National power grid demand up by 200 million KW per week
   • Tax free savings plan for EV conversion or purchase
   • Grants or low interest loans for low income people to convert their ride, exchange their ride, or purchase EV
   • Vehicle Conversion Regulations (inspection, modification, etc.)
   • New vehicle Battery standards
2. Provincial Government:
   • Stop subsidizing petrochemical
   • Stop fighting against the federal government
   • Stop coal production and use
   • Put more effert into green technology
   • Offer incentives to atract new EV busineses to locate locally
3. Municipal Government:
   • find a way to get involved
4. Lending Institutions and banks:
   • Tax free savings plan for EV conversion or purchase
   • Be more supportive of green technology
5. Businesses:
   • Gas stations will have deminishing sales and must become charge stations.
   • Lead acid battery makers and re-builders will have new market by making Gcells for EV. Owners can replace worn Gcells just like they do lead acid batteries.
   • Auto sales lots will have to change
     Currently they give higher trade in value to ICE vehicles and not much for EV because they don't understand a simple motor that makes no noise and a engine that is noisy, polluting, with 1000's of parts. As ICE is phased out vehicle value on ICE will drop to 0 trade-in with-in 11 years.
   • Insurance providers have to change
     This business of righting off EV vehicles just because they use battery instead of gas or diesel has to change. They right off 30,000 to 80,000 dolars of battery because no industry is established to check or repair them.
   • New Battery Builders / rebuilders business
     will need staff to make Gcells
   • New Solar panel Businesses focused on Vehicles
     will need staff to make custom panels
   • Auto makers will need to change from 1 giant pack to 2 smaller packs called banks with each bank being made from user replaceable Gcells.
   • Auto Recycle and wrecking yards
     You current have the remnants of 60 or more years of wrecked automobiles which you break down into parts for resale and scrap the rest as metal and plastic waste. Over the next 16 years the market for your parts will become zero and all those wrecked and stacked EV's will just keep increasing.
      You need to partner with battery rebuilders,
      You need to partner with Conversion shops that need you motors inverters and charge ports.
     Businesses will be less overwhelmed if vehicles are converted instead of scrapped. Converted vehicles will still need parts so market for the parts remain.
   • New conversion shops will be needed
      24 Million vehicles to be inspected (inspectors needed)
      Auto mechanics will be needed to remove ICE parts for recycle
      Wrecked EV can source motors, inverters, battery packs, etc for conversion.
   • Some one needs to take my crude designs of Universal dash controler, Battery technology, and solar plans and build our better future.
6. General Public:
   • Low income owners need way to save for EV
   • Quads, snow mobiles, motorbikes, atv's that you wish keep will need conversion too
   • Class A, B, C motor coaches will need to be converted to EV

    Armed with these plans people will benefit from choices to meet their needs when we go green by 2040.

Chapter 03 Travel for free with an EV Truck

     It's high time to move away from the ICE (internal combustion engine) and all that goes along with it. No Engine tune-ups, No Oil changes, No belts to break, No fuel going bad, No spark plugs, No injectors, No power robbing EGR, ECS, Catalytic converter. No archaic FICM, ICS and above all no pollution or hydrocarbon emissions. Just a nice simple motor and inverter designed to last 1 million miles. Yes you will still have tires that wear, Hubs to repack, Steering parts to maintain, Brakes to redo but the brakes may last 500,000 miles instead of 20,000 miles.

Unlike the auto-makers who are in business to sell new models designed to require a lot of ongoing maintenance, I am going down this path to help vehicle owners keep money in their pockets, help the planet by NOT creating more waste and pollution. As an EV owner of a converted ICE vehicle you are really exchanging $0.17/mile in fuel (based upon 30mpg @ $5/gal) for battery power $0.08/mile if you recharge at home using 120v AC outlet (based upon 8000 lb vehicle 50KW battery $0.17 /KW ). Yes you have 16 Gcells making your battery pack but instead of having to replace a whole pack every 10 to 15 years like what auto-makers want, you can locate the Gcells that aren’t performing well and replace the ones that are weak far cheaper. With solar recharge you can cut cost per mile to under $0.03/mile. You have control over your costs. If you travel the average of 12,000 miles a year, fuel would cost $0.17 x 12,000 = $2040 and as electric you could spend only $0.03 x 12,000 = $360. In 10 years you have $16,800 + interest and by 15 years $25,200 + interest to cover the Gcells. Battery prices are steadily decreasing in price. What costs $16,000 today is expected to be $5,000 in 5 years!

My Mom summed it up right when she said "this is the final straw. You know electronics, you know computers, you have made so many things so you are mechanical, SO WHY HAVE WE STILL NOT GOT AN ELECTRIC VEHICLE."

Table 1 Vehicle Classes

The auto Industry uses curb weight to classify vehicles. They do this because using an average for all models in the class makes sense. The auto-makers do this also to skew the figures for their various models. If they have model ‘A’ with actual curb weight of 3512 lbs and model ‘B’ is 3545 lbs, there isn’t much difference 33 lbs. Model ‘A’ may have a GVWR of 4600 lbs so it can have 1088 lbs of people and cargo but model ‘B’ has a GVWR of 4200 lbs. Model ‘B’ is 33 lbs heavier in curb weight but can only have 655 lbs of people and cargo. The GVWR always identifies the maximum load the structure can support. If you tow or plan to tow a trailer GCWR replaces GVWR because that figure has the maximum structure capability of both the vehicle and trailer. If both models ‘A’ and ‘B’ have a GCWR of 9000 lbs then vehicle model ‘A’ can pull a trailer with contents to a maximum of 9000-4600=4500lbs. Model ‘B’ has a maximum trailer and content weight of 9000-4200=4800lbs. But, and there is always a but, the final restriction on using a trailer is the hitch weight ratio. If the towed trailer has a hitch weight of 900 lbs and the vehicle’s hitch weight maximum is 1000 lbs you are good to go but if the vehicle’s hitch weight is 500 lbs then you can’t pull that trailer. Some times, the GCWR has two limits 7000/9000 to tell you that a towed trailer without brakes would be 2500 lbs on vehicle ‘A’ and the full 4500 lbs if it has brakes. This is because as you pull a trailer it stretches and compresses the frame during acceleration and braking. THIS ALL PERTAINS TO BOTH ICE AND EV VEHICLES!

To deal with converting an ICE into an EV we can use the curb weight to calculate how much weight we are removing by deleting the ICE stuff (engine, Transmission, catalytic, muffler, exhaust, gas, gas tank, engine support systems) and how much we are adding back with (motor, inverter, charge port, solar array). With luck there is enough left to put the battery pack. See below…

Table 2 Vehicle Conversion

There are 3 sizes of Gcells 42A, 84A, and 144A. The weight of the battery Pack is 537.6 lbs, 1075.2 lbs and 1843.2lbs respectively. Each Pack has 16 Gcells that are individually replaceable so as to keep costs down for the user. These are average figures based upon vehicle class.

Table 3 Vehicle GVWR

In the above, The average GVWR of a class = curb weight + payload. Trucks include SUV type vehicles. The compact truck includes mini-vans, smaller suv’s, and small trucks like the ford Currier. The Midsize truck includes regular cab, extended cab, and crew cab of half ton pick-ups and even some ¾ ton pick-ups. Large truck includes ¾ ton and larger types With the GVWR and GCWR we can approximate range of travel with and without a trailer. If the pack weight is 1075.6 lbs it has 84A Gcells in two banks per pack so pack amps is 168A. All Packs are 384v so our Kwatts = (V *A)/1000 = (384*168)/1000 = 64.512KW. Now take the GVWR/10000 to calculate KW/mile so if we take a midsize truck 7576/10000 = 0.758 kw per mile and using KW/0.758 = 85.11 miles to a charge. Pulling a trailer KW/1.45 = 44.49 miles. This isn’t too impressive but that is fully loaded to the max. Same truck but only carrying the driver at 200 lbs is 64.512/0.448 = 144 miles. The average person drives 12000 miles a year according to the insurance bureau of Canada so you get 4.5 days per charge. Solar charging can replenish up to 0.9kw of the 8kw used while you worked or visited. You get home and plug in and are fully recharged 7 hours. Gas would have cost you $5 and electricity cost you $2.38. A month of commuting to work using gas $100 and using electricity raised your electric bill $47.60.

If you bank the $2.62 that you would have spent on gas + oil changes you will have the money to replace the batteries that may fail. Keep in mind that battery cells making up a pack degrade at different rates. The prius, focus, and every other EV currently available use one huge pack. When a cell degrades the whole pack is replaced and they just scrap the pack. Did you know that when a Tesla pack that was end of life was taken apart and the cells tested, less than 4% could have been replaced to return the pack to ~100%. We use Gcells which are individually replaceable and can be rebuilt. So if one Gcell is giving trouble you only need replace it. In fact a properly equipped battery shop could take the Gcell apart and replace the worn cells. You see as batteries age they take less charge. Charging stops when the weakest battery says it is charged.

So you have your EV and 9 years in to using it you notice you used to get 144 miles to a charge and now get 100 miles. 40 miles on bank 1 and 60 miles on bank 2. Load testing the Gcells you see 2 in bank 1 and 1 in bank 2 are far weaker than the rest. So you replace them and find now you get 136 miles from the pack. If you had of continued without changing out weak Gcells by year 12 you might be down to only 40 miles to a charge or less. Point is that if cost of the whole pack is $32,000 and 3 of 16 were weak you got almost full range back for $6000 instead of $32,000. You may even be able to do a kind of pack tune-up. Move all the strongest Gcells into I bank and replace the weakest ones to make the second bank good.

Another angle is for the people with short funds availability, they can begin doing one bank of batteries and have a short range of use (full pack is 2 banks $16800 with range of 144 miles, 1 bank is $8400 with range of 72 miles). When you can afford the additional bank you add it for full range.

In table 2 above you may have noticed the ‘net change’ value was higher than the curb weight in some cases. This is due to compensating for battery weight by in effect reducing payload weight listed in table 3. We aren’t looking to modify the overall GVWR because that value defines the structural limits of the frame.

Table 4 Vehicle Range

Because my focus is on affordability not only to convert but also to maintain, the choice was made to build Gcells from 32700 type cells. While they are larger and heavier than 21700 type cells they are less expensive.

Using the Gcell concept you can make 1 bank of the pack ~$8400 for 42A Gcells and run with half range. Add the second bank later for full range. A full pack weighs 544 lbs for $16,788 and a 42A pack using 21700 cells is 188lbs for $26,000. At the left I show we can double the range by upgrading to 84A Gcells and because they are lighter but way more expensive.

100Miles = 166kms

As you see the heavier your net weight (curb weight + batteries + people + cargo), the shorter your maximum range becomes. I have included both 32700 type Gcells and 21700 type Gcells. In the listing. There is really no point in using 40A 21700 cells @ $26,000 to achieve the same range as using 42A 32700 Gcells for $16,788 so instead I up the first category to be 80A 21700 Gcells but you get double the range for 3 times the initial cost. All Gcells in a bank must be the same amperage. In general you can have bank 1 and bank 2 both the same or can have bank 1 and bank 2 at different Ah. If bank 1 & 2 ar 42A then Pack is 84A. If bank 1 is 84A and bank 2 is 42A the pack is 126A. You technically if space and weight limits permit, even wire a bank in parallel such that bank 1 has 84A Gcells, bank2 has 2 banks attached in parallel of 84A+42A. Under such a situation when on bank 1 your range = 126 miles but on bank 2 you get 190 miles. During charge cycles the charge times would be appropriately longer.

So here comes another wrinkle. You generally commute to and from work and other activities using your car or truck with no issue but long trips or going on vacation with your trailer you just can’t make it. A piggyback port might be the answer. With a piggyback port an external battery pack loaded into your trunk, truck-box, or in your trailer might just give the edge. Yes you are reducing payload weight by the weight of the pack so it is a judgment call.

32700 Gcells are 10”x10”x6” and 34 lbs ea. and 21700 Gcells are 6”x6”x6” and 10 lbs ea. So a single bank can be made as small as 10”x40”x12” or 12”x24”x6” bsed upon type of Gcell.

You would only carry the Piggyback bank or pack when you need the extra range. So your truck gets 144 miles from it’s 168A pack with one occupant but now you are going 180 miles (300km) with the family to visit Edmonton from Calgary. Your payload just increased by 400 lbs. The piggyback bank is added to your truck box and now you have 210A Pack. You now have 80.4KW and 0.448 + 0.06 = 0.508kw/m so your range is now 159 miles (264.5km). Okay so my example may need a stopover in Red deer to recharge because we are still 31 miles short. But we did manage to extend the range with added payload weight (family). If it was just you going on the trip you could just make it there with the piggyback bank. It wasn’t that long ago that gas and diesel vehicles had such short ranges that people carried jerry cans of fuel so they could make a trip. In time engine performance was improved, new lighter frames and bodies improved range.

Adding a Piggyback Bank or Pack to a trailer can also be of benefit. Lets take the family on vacation with the trailer to camp. Our truck GVWR = 7500 lbs of this we are using 5080 lbs (family+in truck bed piggyback 42A). We attach trailer (5000 lbs loaded) + another piggyback (84A 578 lbs). GCWR = 14500 lbs and we are using 5080 + 5578 = 10,658 lbs. Our kw/mile = 1.065kw/mile. Our total pack amps has increased from 168A to 294A. Our pack KW has increased from 64KW to 112.89KW so our range is 112.9/1.065 = 106 miles (176km) with family, supplies, and camper. Recharge at campsite for trip home.

Should you suffer a Battery cell dying, your unit will not be stranded without power, as the other bank will provide limited power till you can fix the issue.

     1. Why would you do this Well, frankly for a number of reasons. YMMV. In my journey to being a full time RV er, I don't travel much; but when I do, cost of fuel for distance traveled is an issue. Here is my go to list of reasons to convert:

   • Fuel Tank size : 80gal(288 Ltr) at $4.68/gal(1.20/Ltr) = $374.40/Tank ** Cost per mile $1.28 if all goes well
   • Distance/Tank : 480miles (800km)
   • Electric charge: 200A * 120v = 24000watts / 1000 = 24kwh * $0.15 = $3.60 /116km ** Cost per mile cut to $0.05 WOW factor
   • More environmentally friendly (no harmful carbon emissions)
   • No oil changes
   • No Mechanics
   • No tows
   • Having an older fully paid for vehicle converted for hopefully about $37800 which is by far, 50% cheaper than a new gas hog.
   • Over the lifespan (15yrs) of a typical gas hog
      ◦ Unit cost $30,000
      ◦ Usage costs :
         ▪ @20000km/yr $3500 Maintenance of $3450. YMMV.
         It's only $84,650 over 15 years
         ▪ In the end you get to replace your unit and do it all again.
   • But EV has a better approach.
      ▪Same $30,000 vehicle,
      ▪charging costs of 0 to $540 per year,
      ▪conversion costs $37800 grand total of $74,900
      ▪In the end of 15yrs you can replace the batteries from the money you saved not buying fuel or doing oil changes and engine repairs.
   • Most drive trains are rated for 350,000 miles mainly due to engine and associated systems. Take that ICE (internal combustion engine) and all that goes with it out of the equation and replace that with an EV motor, controller, inverter, batteries rated for over a million miles and your now talking progress.

     2. Why you should not do this:
   • Local gas stations won't like you.
   • Gas companies also won't like you.
   • The municipalities may worry about what your unit will place on it's power system. (few understand that 30A 120v AC can not deliver more than that).
   • Costs are prohibitive.
   • You like paying high repair costs
   • You have more money than you need anyway.
   • Car dealerships won't be your friend either:
      ◦ they want to move new models not have people choose to stay with the same old model.
      ◦ As long as you are running on gas or diesel they know how to talk the talk and convince you into the nice new unit and know how to resell your unit.
      ◦ If it's an EV how do they talk you into a new unit and how do they rate your old unit to resell it.
   • You'll here claims that you are hurting the economy and putting people out of work because you aren't choosing to be broke. awh!

3. What's the first thing you need to consider? Weight :
   • You are removing 28lbs of gas tank plus 260lbs of fuel if full,
   • about 675 lbs of motor,
   • 40lbs of exhaust
   • for about 1000 lbs.
   • Then you are adding 120 lbs of electric motor,    • Inverter and controller for about another 20 lbs.

   Hmm, not bad saving 860 lbs. But, and there is always a but, you need batteries and a lot of them. Lithium ion cells configured into 384v banks @ 82Ah weigh 544 lbs compared to 32x 12v lead-acid batteries of 85Ah at 2720 lbs that's why electric cars use them.

5 yrs ago the cost to do one these conversions spiked at about $80,000. Today it runs starting about $16,800 and in five years is expected to be about $5,000 or less.

Where do you put all those batteries?!!
How much will they weigh?!!
Can my unit handle the weight?!!
Are all good and necessary questions.

To address these lets look at where to put them.

1. In car conversion, limitations of weight and space means that in order to handle the batteries you must give up space, under the rear seat, in the trunk, under the engine compartment hood. And due to weight limits you may not have enough to go very far on a charge.
2. Trucks (pick-ups, tractor trailer units) can handle more weight but still may not be enough space for the batteries.
3. Buses and other large frame units, have the clear advantage. The frames can handle the weight, space under the frame and where the engine used to be is ample space.

Beyond just Motor, Inverter, Controller and Batteries

There are things to note about the differences between an ICE (internal combustion Engine) and an EV (Electric Vehicle):

1. Are the Brakes Manual, Hydraulic, Boosted hydraulic, Vacuum, Electric, Air? 

2. Hope you planned to keep the radiator because you will need to cool the Inverter and motor. 

3. Will your windshield washers work? 

4. What about window defroster, cabin heat? 

5. Emergency contingencies 

6. Licensing, Insurance and regulations? 

Brakes:

      The Boosted Hydraulic tend to use a vacuum from the ICE motor to assist in braking. You have just discarded the motor so need to find an electric replacement for the vacuum supply

Cooling:

The motor under load gets hotter the faster you travel. Believe me you have a lot of load at 1 to 2 tonnes. The Inverter too goes through a lot of load pains as it calls for more power. The original radiator, with a fan and appropriate water pump will need to circulate water through or around both the motor and Inverter

Wash and Wipe:

To my knowledge all vehicles use an electric pump run on demand. Likewise the wipers are already electric. So for our conversion all we need is to provide 12v battery power for these systems. That same battery power can run the radiator fan and water circulation system. That means we need to tap 12v from the 48v battery packs.

Defrost and Heat:

While rear window defroster is electric so we are ok at the back. We might be able to tap into the cooling line for the motor and Inverter and use a set of salvaged electric ceramic space heaters to create a means of both defrosting the windows and providing cabin heat.

In an Emergency:

Because EV battery packs are carefully monitored during charge or discharge you won’t have to worry about this.

     For our lowly EV there are just too many misconceptions usually brought on those feeling threatened like auto salespersons, mechanics, people reacting to news and drawing wrong conclusions.
     There are hundreds of reports about cell phone batteries and computer batteries catching fire and being so dangerous because they are lithium. This is true but, and there is always a but, There are hundreds of types of lithium battery. The kinds used in cell phones are rapid charge without either of ecm (electric charge maintenance) or also known as BCM (Battery charge monitoring) and cooling. The kind used in EV must be managed by a charge system with BMS and are of a more stable form of Battery than a cell phone can have. Temperature is regulated both during charge and normal discharge.

     In any accident vehicles have what is known as an inertia switch intended to cut power to the unit and diesel or propane vehicles have a master fuel shutoff as well. For those looking to convert a vehicle to EV, the powers that be have made the following ruling, "An EV of any type must have an inertia switch that immediately cuts power to the motor in the event of a collision. There must also be a master Battery cutoff with clear notification where it is and how to access the batteries for safe disconnection".
In my design, an Inertia switch kills the power to the batteries until reset. A master shutoff is located inside the driver seat area, with notices inside and out where it is. And each bank of Batteries will have a Bank shutoff. I tend to enclose the Banks such that no-one including me can have access to the dangerously high voltages and currents of the battery banks.

The laws:

     The legalities are changing daily it seems. As more people turn to evehicles, the provinces and states are re-writing the books. As of this writing I learned that all that required in Alberta is to register the vehicle as an evehicle. It licenses just in the normal sense. No change to drivers licensing rules. The insurance industry is a little behind the times. True they need to know that the evehicle conversion is done right and posses no threat to people property or roadways. For this they ask you to provide a proof of compliance from a vehicle inspection outlet.

     At the inspection outlet you can expect them to check things like what have you modified in the structure of the frame, axles, brakes, Emergency Brake, and how have you mounted and secured the motor. Have the battery packs been built to tight transportation safety standards. If you don't pass, expect big problems in the future. As stated above you must provide an Emergency shutoff with clear notices as to how to disconnect Batteries. And you must have an inertia switch. These things inspectors can fail you on.

When I first started considering my earlier motorhome project:

     I came armed with over 40 years of Electronics experience, Computer science experience, Computer programming experience and some Power electrical experience. Still I listened to those from many walks of life and perspectives for insight on things I may not have thought of. We are now at the point where the gearheads fought hard to discourage me from going down this path. It's plane Idiocracy. You know if there is something in my long life I have learned is that it is filled with people who can't or just won't think out of the box. I am going to quote lyrics from a Harry Chapin song here that fits the bill of my point.
The little boy went first day of school, He got some crayons and started to draw
He put colors all over the paper, For colors was what he saw
And the teacher said.. What you doin' young man
I'm paintin' flowers he said
She said, It's not the time for art young man
And anyway flowers are green and red
There's a time for everything young man, And a way it should be done
You've got to show concern for everyone else, For you're not the only one
And she said: Flowers are red young man, Green leaves are green
There's no need to see flowers any other way, Than the way they always have been seen
But the little boy said: There are so many colors in the rainbow
So many colors in the morning sun, So many colors in the flower and I see every one
Well the teacher said
... Well long story short the boy was punished and later in life he was at a new school with happy people who painted flowers in all colors and all the boy could do was gruffly say

Flowers are red, green leaves are green, there is no need to see them any other way than the way they always have been seen.

Here is the point.

• I understand that people who are making their living in the fossil fuel industry don't want to see anything that might take that away.
• Those in product sales like Automotive sales outlets, RV sales outlets don't want a vehicle that lives forever
• Mechanics and automotive parts suppliers also see the drive to go to electric vehicles as a big mistake because that will hurt their livelihood if people don't have vehicles that will break down.

     I don't think I or anybody that I ever associated with wants anybody to loose their jobs or livelihood. People make up facts or false stories to discredit EV as the worst idea to ever come along and this just a sign of short sightedness. The same mechanics that tried to discourage me from going EV are proud of the fact that they defeated their EGR or catalytic converter to get better gas mileage or more power. Or flaunted how they add nitro to their mix to make a mean racing machine. But I am crazy to find a way that saves money and is legal.

Should I be apologizing because...

• Round trip for my gas hog took $20 fuel before conversion but same distance after conversion will likely cost $3.60 electricity, and if the commute is a daily thing, it would cost me $7.67 per day towards eventual battery replacement. So instead of spending $20 for a daily trip it costs me $11.27 and over half of that is put in savings.

• I no longer need oil changes every 3 months or 5km

• My brakes can last over 500,000 miles instead of only 20,000

• My motor can go at least a million miles before I need do anything but the gas hog is going to be screaming for seals, belts, hoses, plugs, additives, and much more at least 5 times over that same period

• My EV causes a little bit of carbon emissions during the generation of electricity to charge me but your gas hog creates enough deadly emissions that if you run it in an enclosed space you kill everyone in that space from carbon monoxide poisoning. And also that carbon emission used to charge me would still be generated for home heating, cooking, etc. even if I didn't charge an EV.

• Yes I got to go home to charge or find a charge spot elsewhere on my travels and it can take 4 to 13 hours to get charged which is different than your gas hog that can be filled up almost at any street corner. But a hundred years ago people who could afford cars had to hope their local station didn't run out of gas because stations were not that plentiful. It all takes time.

• On a cold rainy day, I can drive home and plug in my EV go in side and stay dry. But you got a gas hog so you got to stand in the rain and get wet and cold to serve your master "the gas hog".

On a daily compute of 24 miles round trip operational costs of $95,000 for a regular gas conveyance is a mere $23,370 over 5 years because the cost of the electric includes $16,800 of electric batteries replacement @ $7.67 per day banked towards the need.

It is my hope that after you read the following pages you will too see the basis for the information I have summarized above.

Chapter 04 An EV Truck: The Chassis

A look at the chassis of trucks. We will be looking at 3 makers and 3 cab styles each.

The Chevy / GMC series

     There are 11 types of truck with differing roof space for solar panels and frame dimensions that affect GVWR, payload, and curb weight. Remember the GVWR defines the maximum weight allowed by the factory that built the truck. If towing is involved GCWR = GVWR + GTWR where the GTWR defines the maximum weight of towed trailer. The trailer will have a GWR that must be less than or equal the GTWR of the truck. The truck and trailer will also have a hitch weight. The hitch weight of the truck must be higher than the hitch load of the trailer.

Cab styles change the curb weight involved so you must use the correct curb weight, GVWR, GCWR for the vehicle you wish to convert. A weigh scale can be used to measure weights of engine and transmission etc. removed from the vehicle and weights of motor/inverter added to determine what is available for battery Packs, and solar. Solar are 29lbs on average and provide 1 to 2 amps each with 1 to 3 panels per roof type (regular, extended, or crew ) cab. Using the frame layout below we see a lot of variation in frame height above ground level. Dimension G is 10” above ground on all models and is lowest point on the frames. Ignoring the wheel wells the highest points are F and I being 13 and 17 & ¾ respectively. Using H & I we have about 6” depth to the frame. So G – 3” = 7” true height clearance. Mounting a protective plate to the bottom of the frame at point E and extending back length of R and attaching to the rear frame at that point gives us 6” at the front increasing to 10 ¾” and again increasing to 12 7/8” at the back. R varies from 46” to 129” by model. All this defines space for batteries between the frames. Frame spacing is 28” so at the front we have 6”x28”x ? ” then ~10”x 28” x ? “ then 12” x 28” x ? “ at the back. You need to determine the values for the (?) by measurement. If the first (?) is 10” then you have room for 2 Gcells on flat followed by 7 rows of 2 Gcells standing up to 17 rows of 2 Gcells. So the CA105 and KA105 has room for 16 Gcells, the Vans have room for 12 rows of 2 Gcells and most pick-ups have room for 17 rows of 2 Gcells (4 banks or 2 Packs) of room. The pick-ups have room for 2 packs of 84A or 1 pack of 168A or 1 pack of 288A if weight permits.

Chevy GVWR specs

Model CA314 Double cab GVWR 6800 lbs 2WD selected
for conversion.

Chevy wheelbase & ground clearance

wheelbase 147.4 in.
ground clearance 7.8 in.

5.3L 1920 lb payload
curb weight 4920 lbs

The Dodge RAM series

There are 16 types of truck with differing roof space for solar panels and frame dimensions that affect GVWR, payload, and curb weight. Remember the GVWR defines the maximum weight allowed by the factory that built the truck. If towing is involved GCWR = GVWR + GTWR where the GTWR defines the maximum weight of towed trailer. The trailer will have a GWR that must be less than or equal the GTWR of the truck. The truck and trailer will also have a hitch weight. The hitch weight of the truck must be higher than the hitch load of the trailer.

Cab styles change the curb weight involved so you must use the correct curb weight, GVWR, GCWR for the vehicle you wish to convert. A weigh scale can be used to measure weights of engine and transmission etc. removed from the vehicle and weights of motor/inverter added to determine what is available for battery Packs, and solar. Solar are 29lbs on average and provide 1 to 2 amps each with 1 to 3 panels per roof type (regular, extended, or crew ) cab. Using the frame layout below we see a lot

of variations in the frame and they don’t give ground clearance. We are interested the frame spacing from the 3^rd cross member to the 5^th cross member for this is where we likely can place batteries. The frame seams to be 6” to 7” depth x 2” to 3” width. Frame spacing about 36”

Dimensions and weights for the Ram 1500, the 2500 and 3500 were not found.

The Ford chassis series

There are 12 types of truck with differing roof space for solar panels and frame dimensions that affect GVWR, payload, and curb weight. Remember the GVWR defines the maximum weight allowed by the factory that built the truck. If towing is involved GCWR = GVWR + GTWR where the GTWR defines the maximum weight of towed trailer. The trailer will have a GWR that must be less than or equal the GTWR of the truck. The truck and trailer will also have a hitch weight. The hitch weight of the truck must be higher than the hitch load of the trailer.

Cab styles change the curb weight involved so you must use the correct curb weight, GVWR, GCWR for the vehicle you wish to convert. A weigh scale can be used to measure weights of engine and transmission etc. removed from the vehicle and weights of motor/inverter added to determine what is available for battery Packs, and solar. Solar are 29lbs on average and provide 1 to 2 amps each with 1 to 3 panels per roof type (regular, extended, or crew ) cab. Using the frame layout below we see a fairly consistent frame 34” width but the distance from F to C

mounts is missing where we need the ground clearance value and length. All we know is frame depth is 6” to 7” which can support Gcells on flat and frame width can hold 3 Gcells across so as long as F to C is at least 5 feet we can hold 16 x 42A Gcells, If road clearance is at least 13” we can do 16 x 84A Gcells in 5 feet and we can do 6 x 144A Gcells. or 12 x 144A if clearance is at least 13”. I can guess with 22” wheels we would be guaranteed 11” clearance.

The wheel base values

The GVWR of the models

Specs for 17” wheels

Specs for 18” wheels

*** There are also another chart with specs for 18” duleys.>

Using what I learned from the motor home conversion, If we have 3 basic Gcell Types all being 48v for easy charging and compactness, we can do any size of vehicle. The smallest Gcell is 42Ah, followed by 84Ah and finally 144Ah. Where a 12v lead-acid battery is 85 lbs, the Lithium ones would be 34 lbs, 68 lbs and 105 lbs respectively. With 12v batteries at about 9”x7”x10” the Gcell▪s are 10”x10”x6”, 10”x10”x12” and 10”x30”x6”. So it is possible to source Gcells at local stores like we do for lead acid cells and old Gcells can be recycled for rebuild just like lead acid are done now.

Chapter 05 EV Truck: Drive Train

Drive train investigation

     The end goal is to be able to move a 3400 lb mass on command. This relies upon the motor, gearbox, Inverter, and cooling technologies. We know that work creates heat. So if we expend energy to drive a motor fast, it will heat up because it is under load. Supplying that energy is an Inverter that changes Battery power measured in DC to alternating power called AC. The inverter therefore also will be working hard.

     Ultimately we want to move 2 tonnes (4000lbs) from 0 to 120kph (0 to 72mph) and we would like to maintain this for 200kms (120miles). The laws of motion do not change just because we are driving the motion by a different method. So the distance traveled by the rotation of a 14" diameter tire will always be 3.14 (pi) x 14 (d) 43.96 inches until the tire wears down to it's minimum diameter of 13.21 inches which means it only travels 41.48 inches.

     Mileage does not change either. There is 5280 feet in a mile and 12 inches to a foot. That's 63,360 inches to a mile. From this we can tell how many rotations of the tire are needed to cover the distance. (63,360 / 43.96)= 1441.31 r/m. The differential uses a ratio of how many turns of the drive shaft it takes per rotation of the tire. We need to know this ratio as it will tell us how fast the gearbox output shaft must spin to make 1 rotation. Multiply that by the number of rotations per mile and we have the first part of the equation.

     From the above we now can work out rotations needed to go a specific distance and then work out the maximum time we want to take to make that distance. So if our differential is 5:1 then we know the drive shaft spins 5 times to turn the wheel 1 turn and 5 x 1441.31 = gearbox turns to go 1 mile = 7206.55 r/m. Rotations are counted in rounds per minute (rpm). There are 60 minutes to an hour. So if we want to go 1 mile per hour, we need to divide 7206.55 by 60 minutes to get the rpm. Which in this case is 120.1 rpm. To do the top speed of 72mph our gearbox will be rotating the driveshaft at 120.1 x 72 = 8647.86 rpm.

     The preceding applies to a rear wheel drive but, and there is always a but, the Car is front wheel drive. It still has a differential but the differential is part of the transmission not connected to the transmission using a drive shaft. With FWD our CV axles mate with the differential gear inside the transmission. The differential gear mates with an output gear on a secondary shaft. The secondary shaft has 2 to 4 clutch gears. A clutch gear when unpressurized free spins. Force hydraulic pressure into the clutch and the outer gear transfers rotation into the inner gear on the output shaft.

     A series of solenoids are used to redirect hydraulic fluid to the appropriate clutch gear. Only 1 clutch engages at a time. All the clutch gear outer gears mate with different size gears on the main shaft. In this manor, when a specific clutch engages, it's outer gear transfers the new ratio to the secondary shaft. The Main shaft mates with a flywheel clutch gear that when presurized transfers rotation from a torque converter to the main shaft. The torque converter mates with the engine output shaft. Part of the torque converter and Flywheel clutch has a hydraulic fluid pump that is used to pump the hydraulic fluid to the necessary components.

     At top speed of 66mph, driveshaft rpm is 2907.5rpm. At local highway speeds here of 100kph to 110kph (60mph to 66mph) we need a motor that can sustain an rpm of 3000. Most motors run 500 to 3500rpm as upper limits with 1500 being a go to standard. This would mean we need a gear ratio of our gearbox to be 6:1 @ 500rpm and 2:1 @ 1500rpm and 1:1 @ 3000rpm. But from the source "electric cars are for girls" they say Most AC electric motors run 230v AC @ 60 Hz and a top speed of 1750rpm. They also say that to create 230V AC from a DC source you need 340V DC from your Battery pack. Not to be thrown some curve, it's time to do more investigation. I tried to find some concrete facts about motors, torque, and weight classes they can safely handle but none could be found. So time for different approach we will review TV programs from "Jay Leno's Garage and web cast from EV west to try and get more info.

    Jay Leno's Garage did 2 EV Bus Episodes. One was for Econoliner in California and the other was a repurposed Transit bus. Both busses were about 18000 lbs without passengers and 38000 lbs when full of passengers. In comparison to my first project (an EV Motorhome), My fully loaded motorhome comes in at 17,500 lbs and 24,500 when towing a car behind it. My Motorhome is therefore lighter. The Busses have a kwh/m of 1.8 to 3.8 depending on load, where my Motorhome is 1.75 to 2.4 depending on load, and a Car is 0.34. Both busses use more than 360v @600 Amps = 234Kw and where the repurposed bus provides that it can travel at highway speeds of 50mph for 100 miles to a charge, the Econoliner travels in the city with many start stops at an average speed of 9mph over an 18mile route with fast recharge enroute and runs 24 hours a day. The values for the repurposed bus suggest it is making the trip at far less than full since they have 234kw and to do 100 miles would take 380kw if full of passengers. In the episodes, they mention HP is about 170 to 200 and that the real killer is torque. Because electric motors have instantanious torque it tends to destroy conventional transmissions based upon multiple gear ratios so EV's are better off with fixed gear styles. And lastly that an expected decrease of brake wear of 50% was remarkably exceeded such that brakes should last > 500,000 miles over the ICE at 20,000 miles.

   The EV-West podcast basically itemized how a DC electric motor is much larger than an AC motor of the same drive potential. While DC motors are plentiful and cheaper, both in cost of the motor and in cost to control them, they have serious limitations. Firstly, the maximum vehicle weight of 3000 lbs from a single motor and ganging two motors to increase load capabilities is counter productive. The motor weight itself is heavier than an AC motor. Two DC motors is 1 & 2/3rds heavier than an AC motor and typically 30" long compared to an AC motor that is 15" to 18" long. DC motors run much hotter then their AC counterpart. Heat is so high that long distance at higher speeds is almost impossible without a custom transmission.

   Ok so here is what I learned from this:

1. DC motors won't work they have to be AC drive
2. Weight/10000 = kwh/mile
3. Interior amenities are run from regular batteries and recharged by an inverter.
4. HP is between 170 and 200, Torque at about 1200 ft-lbs
5. 50 mph. is not a problem and with the right gearing 66mph is doable
6. With regen braking brakes may last 25 times longer than on ICE
7. A small 15" x 20" electric AC motor drives the axles through a gear box connected to the differential. The motor is run by an inverter and controller.
8. braking is regenerative
9. They may have 1 battery pack for a total of ~360 volts. That means the battery pack need to add up to 360+v and lithium ion cells which they are also using are 3.2v each. That means 1 pack contain a minimum of 113 cells in series. Then they have 230.4 kWh in the spec. v x A = w so 230400 / 384 must equal the A rating. Which is 600A. So this bus is probably using 462 cells in parallel if using 18650 cells for a total of 55,440 cells.

     In chapter 12 we will go into depth on the batteries. We will cover types of battery and the effect on quantity, organized grouping, Pack Voltages, Current, Wattage and a number of other factors.
     On the bright side it does confirm what"electric cars are for girls"said about AC motors needing over 340v DC to get 230v AC for the motor. Both bus conversions talking about ~360v in Battery power. With high voltage source and stepping it down by 1.669 to get 230v AC, the current demanded by the AC motor is 1.669 less at the source. As a result, An AC motor demanding 10A @ 230v means the source actually only needs supply 5.99A. This is the run current. At start, the first 1/60th of a second (based upon 60Hz) has surge current about 25 times higher for that 1/2 second. So our 10A motor can be expected to draw 250A for 1/2 second then as the rotor of the motor begins to turn the current drops over the next 6.5 seconds to under 60A then in full rotation settles at the 10A. This of course assumes the motor is being told to run at maximum rotational speed. What happens at the motor is reflected equally at the source. The source will see 150A surge for 1/60th of a second then 6.5 seconds of 36A and then the run current of 6A. This is similar to what happens on an ICE when the starter engages. The ICE Battery has a rating of 800 to 1500 cold cranking amps. As you turn the key to start the battery must supply 800Amps plus thru a 2/0 cable to the starter and 60 to 80 amps to the spark plugs. Once the engine is running, an alternator recharges the battery. If the alternator fails or the belt breaks, the battery supplies the 60 to 80 amps until the 85Ah battery is depleted. Then everything stops.

So moving on...

     The Drive Inverter sits up front with the motor so it's three 2 gauge cables can adequately supply the motor. Under the chassis to the back we have a lighter 4 gauge cable to the charge port and batteries. The cables are overkill as far as run current goes. They are specific to handle the surge currents.
     Our Truck conversion replaces the 675 lbs engine with a 190 lbs motor & inverter. The rear wheel drive transmission is replaced with a shortened driveshaft and a gearbox The fuel tank is only 25 lbs empty and 207 lbs full. The batteries are going to take 585 lbs at least. Under full occupancy, passengers and cargo are qualified at 1980 lbs to meet the GVWR of 6800 lbs. Again we want solar charging which might add as much as 90 lbs. So our battery needs are 0.68kwh/m.

      The cells are a difficult concept because it refers both to a cell being a tiny cylindrical AA type battery and also to the groups of them forming the whole. A prismatic cell is made from 100's of individual AA type looking batteries also called cells.

Motors

Three types of motor for EV's. We have the old low voltage type DC motor, The newer tech AC 3 phase, and the OEM AC 3 phase. All three can move the Car but each has it's own set of problems.

DC Motor
Typically run from 12v lead acid cells, it is abundantly available, low in terms of cost, and great low end torque. At higher speeds, it has virtually no acceleration. It works fine at low speed short distances but can overheat easily under heavy load, higher speeds, or long distances. The controller is simple and regulates the speed only.There is no regenerative braking (free wheels) and needs a transmission to accomplish speed range and reverse features. Heavier motors

AC 3 phase Motor
The go to solution for most EV conversions. Can attain higher speeds from higher voltages, Single gear ratio can do full range of motion with forward and reverse. handles higher loads with higher current packs, not near as bad heat generation, A more complex controller handles the speed and direction. Top end torque and passing power can be compensated for by the controller through a combination of voltage, frequency, and current. Motors are far lighter and smaller. Regenerative braking is possible. Few suppliers and larger costs.

AC 3 phase OEM Motor
Hard to find except salvaged from wrecks, these are the goto for people that want to incorporate a custom solution into a similarly sized conversion. That is to say if you want to put a motor into a 3000 lb vehicle of roughly the same style as the motor from a wreck of a 3000 lb vehicle you can probably do it. The motors will be high voltage, high current, water or oil cooled, and have a special controller/inverter that checks, rotation, current draw, temperature, and other dynamics.

    The one underlying thing that is emerging is that unlike ICE cars where demand for their engines is low, demand for the fuel left in the tank is non-existent, the electrics have high demand for motors, controllers, and Battery packs. This is because 1) they all are expensive, and 2) they last for years even decades. Being virtually a maintenance free system is quite different than their ICE counterpart which has thousands of moving wear prone parts.

The selection process

     Many factors come into play in this process. Most focus on Speed, Acceleration, Distance, Charging, but those come after the computational work is done. For the motor, there are the factors of which type, how much voltage does it need, what is it's operational range (how many continuous rpms), how much current will it demand, what kind of load can it handle and for how long.

Then we have the drive coupling which can be gearbox, direct drive, transmission , and the coupling of the motor to the rear differential either directly or through a transmission/gearbox.

All this then has to be managed by the controller which must match the motor gearbox combo, and has certain demands it places on the required energy source (batteries).
Motor Starting Currents
Typically, during the initial half cycle, the inrush current is often higher than 25 times the normal full load current. After the first half-cycle the motor begins to rotate and the starting current subsides to 4 to 8 times the normal current for several seconds.
How do you calculate the maximum current of a motor?
https://goodcalculators.com/motor-fla-calculator/
Motor Full Load Amperage Calculator

Number of Phases: 3
Motor Rated Voltage: V 230v
Motor Rating: 5 hp
Motor Power Factor: 0.91
Motor Efficiency: 85%

Results
Three Phase Motor Full Load Amperage (FLA): 11.96 A

Number of Phases: 3
Motor Rated Voltage: V 230v
Motor Rating: 4 kw
Motor Power Factor: 0.91
Motor Efficiency: 85%
Results
Three Phase Motor Full Load Amperage (FLA): 11.03 A

     As the label suggests, wh/m is how many watts of power it takes to move a mile at a given speed.
If you use 250 wh/m @ 20mph = 250*20 = 5000w but if you use 250 wh/m @ 50mph = 250*50 = 12500w. They are both right. This is because at 20mph the motor does less work than at 50 mph.

     So our 6800 lb Truck is going to require 680wh/m. But I picked something else from that video. The lecturer also made a point that it isn't just vehicle and contents but it also includes air drag, rolling resistance, and towed trailers.

     An Inverter takes an Input voltage and converts that to AC 3 phase voltage. The motor you wish to drive from the inverter has to match the inverter output so to drive a 144v motor you need an inverter with 144v AC output. Likewise, a 230v AC motor requires an inverter with 230v AC output. This limits choices since Battery pack voltage = Inverter input DC and Inverter output AC = Motor voltage.

AC Induction motor basics:

     Ac motors are the most common motor used in applications because they are AC and readily available. They run quietly and run a very long time and are economical.
All AC motors have same basic components:
1. A stator
2. A rotor.
     The stator is the stationary coil that creates the magnetic field. This field reacts with the rotor bar to produce rotation. In 3 Phase, the stator sets up a current and a magnetic field. The magnetic field causes a rotation due to the 120 degree Phase offset. The current induced in the rotor sets up it's own magnetic field.
     An important thing to remember about 3 Phase is they are offset 120 degrees apart and are self starting.
Slip:      Slip is the difference between synchronous speed and actual speed of the motor. Induction motors rely on the slip to induce current in the rotor and the amount of slip changes as the load on the motor changes.
     In order to change the speed of an induction motor the frequency must be changed. This is accomplished with a motor control and the most common is a variable frequency drive or VFD. Without a VFD the motor speed is fixed by the equation 120 * Frequency / number of poles.
120 * 60Hz/2 = 3600rpm
120 * 60Hz/4 = 1800rpm
120 * 10Hz/2 = 600rpm
120 * 200Hz/2 = 12000rpm
     So as we see here, the VFD control part of the inverter varies the frequency. In the first two examples there is no variance. so the motor always runs at full speed which is governed solely by the number of poles. Not what we want for an EV because we want to adjust the speed based upon the accelerator pedal.
     So in the next two examples our accelerator pedal starts off at 0 and the motor is 120*0/2 = 0rpm. Then we push the accelerator down a bit and get 10Hz which spins the motor at 600rpm and we move. Then we push the pedal to the floor and the motor gets 200hz and the vehicle takes off like a rocket.

Two things things to consider is running speed and starting torque.
1. Running speed: this is determined by power supply frequency , the number of poles and the slip of the motor due to load. The specs will show the torque of the motor.
2. The starting torque is the chief limitation of the AC motor. If the motor must start with a load on consult the motor manufacturer.
Compared to single Phase motors the 3 Phase motor has a higher power density, greater starting torque, and more efficient than the single phase motors. They start on their own.

     Lets add another cog in the design. We can have Modified sine wave inverter controller or we can pure sine wave inverter controller. The Modified Sine wave is cheap and does a poor job as it creates a shakey sine wave made up of almost square waves. These cause a lot of noise interferance effecting everything around. The pure sine wave (like you have in your house 120v AC lines) is a clean smooth sine wave with very little to no ripple. Pure sine wave inversion is far more expensive. Where the cheap inverter may be $30 to $90 the pure sine wave ones may be $350 to $19000. Also, the cheap one will damage any form of digital electronics like Laptops, clocks, radios, TV, and the noise harmonics can interfere with medical equipment even pace-makers!

    As a general rule you select the battery voltage and amperage first, then select the motor that provides the drive range potential and adjust the battery packs to meet the motor needs. Then look for an inverter or build an inverter that satisfies the source input to the required output. We have the Battery plan at 384v DC @ 168A and have found siemens and motovario that supplies 230/400 motors in a large assortment of abilities. The 230/400 rating in general says it runs from 230v AC or from up to 400v DC under PWM or VFD or both.
The Siemens GP 1LE10 IEC-LV-Motor 1E2 seems to be a good match with rpms from 50rpm to 5000rpm. When you get to chapter 12 you will note that when they state the current draw it is based on initial instantaneous current at point of acceleration and not the run current. If the current was the run current maximum vehicle range at 46KW would be less than 2 miles. and we know that if we use 0.44 KWh/m which at 60mph would be 26.4kw in that hour. Current draw would not be 119A = < 2m range but in fact would be 5.98A

I told you this is a big topic or maybe I'm just wordy. We still have yet cover working with HP, Torque values, drag co-efficient, Kwh, Inverters, Charging systems, Distribution systems, Cockpit control and dash display systems, and ways to replicate electrically what was done using the ICE and it's mechanical systems. Then we can move on to actually doing the conversion.

Chapter 06 EV Inverters and controllers

Torque vs Kw

1. Torque (lb.in) = 63,025 x Power (HP) / Speed (RPM)
2. Power (HP) = Torque (lb.in) x Speed (RPM) / 63,025
3. Torque (N.m) = 9.5488 x Power (kW) / Speed (RPM)
4. Power (kW) = Torque (N.m) x Speed (RPM) / 9.5488
5. Torque ft-lb = NM * 0.73756
6. Torque NM = 8.86 * in-lb

Inverters

     These are work horses of the electric vehicle. The motor inverters job is to convert the supplied power from the batteries to the motor in the correct voltage, current, and frequency to drive the motor at a specific speed of rotation. The house inverters job is to convert the supplied power into pure sine wave 60Hz at the correct current for the coach living area on a motor home. A Car however does not need a house inverter.

     On the driveline side of things, we have Battery condition monitoring and real time Battery capacity control, with voltage taps for 12.8v, 48v to run the needed systems. The traction motor, runs from direct inversion of 384v using VFD and PWM..

Inverter/Converter Tandem Units

An inverter/converter is, as the name implies, one single unit that houses both an inverter and a converter. These are the devices that are used by EVs to manage their electric drive systems. Along with a built-in charge controller, the inverter/converter supplies current to the battery pack for recharging during regenerative braking, and it also provides electricity to the motor/generator for vehicle propulsion. EVs use relatively low-voltage DC batteries (about 210 volts) to keep the physical size down, but they also generally use highly efficient high voltage (about 650 volts) AC motor/generators. The inverter/converter unit choreographs how these divergent voltages and current types work together.

Because of the use of transformers and semiconductors (and the accompanying resistance encountered), enormous amounts of heat are emitted by these devices. Adequate cooling and ventilation are paramount to keeping the components operational. For this reason, inverter/converter installations in vehicles have their own dedicated cooling systems, complete with pumps and radiators.

The basic EV

     The diagram here is over simplified. It works as a working model for operation of an EV. If you used this model, yes you would have electric drive but at full speed all the time and once you are out of power everything stops. So we need to enhance the drawing.

    You notice it is basically the same with the missing components now shown. The Inertia Switch stops everything in the event of an accident, The BMS protects the batteries from over charge and over draw, The recharger and port to restore the batteries, Accelerator part of the pedal to regulate speed, the dash to monitor speed and results, and the forward and reverse switch to choose direction of travel.

Additional to these systems, are the automotive systems for lights, braking, a/c, radio, cooling and steering. All of which are not shown on this depiction.

Ideally there should be cutoff switches between the battery banks

BMS

    Essential to the health of the batteries is the Batteries Management System. It's job is to identify cells that are not as charged as others and balance things. It looks at temperature, State of charge, amount of charge or discharge in an effort to keep all cells in prime condition.

Charger

    There are a wide range chargers and charger designs. The charger must optimize the input power (AC) into (DC) known as rectifying it. Then charging the batteries from this rectified output. A good charging system will not allow the batteries to be over charged and will in fact shut off when they reach full charge. With Lithium Phosphate, you can not drain them more than 80% and can not charge more than 95%. To do so would damage the cells. Also take care considering fast charging. Charging at 4.2v per cell is typical of BMS monitored and controlled systems but, and there is always a but, 4.2v will degrade the cells life. A smart choice is to charge at a maximum of 4v which can extend a cells life by more than 25%. Current actually does the charging. If cells are rated for 1A or 6A for example they should not ever be charged faster than that. This is known as the batteries 1C rating. fast charging charges at 2C, 3C, 4C. Some liFePo4 cells can tolerate 2C but not all. Even fewer can tolerate 3C and none can tolerate 4C.
    So consider this, you have a Pack that is 8 Gcells in series so you have 384v and your pack current is 600A and you are going to charge from an AC home outlet. So you have 120v @ 15A. You have an ideal Inverter charger that is very efficient and @ 384v has 5A for charging. This will do great and charge the pack over the next 5 days. Each cell is happy because it gets 0.2 amps slow charge. But you get to a fast charge station 480v 300A fast charge and give it a wirl. The on board inverter converts 480v to 384v and gives it to the batteries. The battery packs are very angry with you. If the individual cells are 18650 they can handle 1 maybe 1.5A if they are 1.1A cells you are charging at 3C. if they 1.5A cells you are at 2C. If they are 32700 cells they are ok because they can deal with 6A.

The PWM Pure Sine Drive Inverter

     The Pure sine wave inversion on the surface does a clean AC wave output to the motor. It gets it's cue from the Accelerator Potbox as to what the demanded speed of rotation is to be. It then needs to read the direction switch (FWD/REV) and use this to determine the frequency to deliver to the AC motor. IF 60Hz is the full on normal run speed of the motor at say 3500rpm, and you are asking for 200rpm then the pulse given to the motor 17% of 60 cycle per second. if I did the math right the pulse would have been .17 seconds.

Chapter 07 EV Truck Theory wrap up

     Thus far we have examined the reason for going the EV truck route. You buy a new truck and drive it off the lot and loose 30% of it's value right off. After a few years you are lucky if you get 10% of what you paid for it. During your ownership you will have paid for your lifestyle with hard cash for fuel, oil changes, typical ICE failure problems that amount to major mechanical bills, tows, and expensive parts. In the end you spend roughly $50,000 for the vehicle, upwards of $4000 a year for upkeep, another $2000 to $6000 a year for traveling, and if you hang on to it for 5 years that's in excess of $80,000 and you might get $5,000 trade in. In the end you are out of pocket $75,000 for 5 years (15,000 a year). Your next 5 years you can expect the same.
     Based upon research, the truck you own or are currently financing might cost you $30,000 for conversion, spent another $500 to $1000 a year for operation if you are unlucky and was charged for power. So your first 5 years cost you $38,000 and instead of trading in you go the next 5 years for $5000. Being frugal, you put away money in the bank as if you were running a gas hog and have $20,000 that you can use to at the end of the second 5 years to replace the batteries that need replacing. Your yearly cost of ownership averaged over 10 years is $4,300 and the vehicle owes you nothing and you are debt free. Without conversion you have diminishing trade-in value and payments on another 50,000 plus a yearly cost of 6,000 or so.

     We examined the chassis and discovered we can remove 490 lbs from the old ICE system. We have now got roughly 8 cu ft of space for our EV Batteries. But have a constraint on how much weight we can add in batteries. In speaking of the batteries we have 4 basic types of battery topography that we can use. Three of the 4 topographies allow us to match and control quality of components for the highest in use life. Removing the complexity of the ICE has reduced us to having a maintenance free motor good for 1 million or more miles, a traction drive inverter, a cockpit control system and 2 Banks of batteries for which we know each and every part of the system. If a cell dies we are left with a still running vehicle but the ICE owner can have thousands of possible failure causes in his system. Check engine light doesn't tell you much does it?

     Looking into our drive train we discovered that our unit is 1/8th the weight of a Motorhome and smaller in size. The Kwh/m was determined at 1/10th the GVCW and total KW = V*A, Electric HP is much less in requirements than an ICE needs and if we prevent shortened battery life by charging at too high a voltage or current we can extend our batteries useful life.

     We dove into the basic theory of AC motors and outlined how AC motors work and why they are a good choice. How to use them in a variable speed set-up rather than to just full on drive to their maximum and keep them there.

     Finally, we discussed the inverters and converters that we will be needing and constraints we need when talking about the different purposes. How using a single 384v battery source can satisfy providing for 12v systems, 5v systems, High voltage systems for drive operation.

     I think we are now ready to go to the next step and define the systems for real.

Chapter 08 EV car Basic System

     The Truck will retain almost none of the electrical systems it once had. We will keep the wiring to the lights but install new lower powered LED lights. Keep the fuse box but repurpose it. Keep the stearing column and all it's controls. The existing system is basically the inertia switch main contactor and the brake and e-brake pedals and the new system (inside the brown borders).

So moving left to right top to bottom we have:

1. *New Drive Motor, Drive Inverter,Accelerator Pedal ***it replaces the gas ICE engine and all that went with it.
2. Main contactor & inertia switch, Driver control, *New Fwd/rev switch, Brake pedals ***adding a FWD/REV switch.
3. *New 16x 48v blocks making 2x banks at 384v, ***replaces the Gas fuel tank.
4. *New 48v, 12v taps, *New 57v Charger, *New 480 watt 57v 4A Solar array or better
5. *New Dash Display, computer, GPIO, HVAC, Pwr Steer, Brake vacuum ***Cockpit control system & implements replacement systems for HVAC, Steering, Brake vacuum.
6. Running lights ***Kept as is.
7. 120v Shore charger.

Wiring and feature pre planning

     The concept here is to have an all purpose universal automotive controller and computer that can accommodate all vehicle classes from the sub-compact to the large scenic cruiser buses and Motor homes. To accomplish this the dash display has a credit card sized computer on it's back and this computer wires to a base board just behind it. The function of the base board is to supply power to the function boards, pass information to and from the computer to the various function boards, link the radio, GPS and phone into the system, and establish charge/discharge monitoring. Above the base board is 3 output modules, 2 input modules, and one analog module.
     Lets start with the Raspberry Pi 3b computer. It has a 40 pin GPIO connector and we have 16 connections from the computer in use. The 16 wires pass to the 16 pin computer connector on the base board. 4 of the 16 wires supply the power, 2 operate as an I2C communication to the function boards. 4 supply notification of input changes, one supplies real time speed of motion changes, and 4 are informing the computer about battery discharge and charge status.

   Now on the base board we have a power connector, followed by an ignition switch connector. The ignition switch turns on the system and once started it cannot be shut down until the computer says it's OK. Next we have the charge controller connector that wires to the rear charge port. Then we have a speed sensor connection. The speed sensor wires to a magnetic or optic sensor on the motor shaft. An I2C connector connects to 3 modules for radio, GPS, and Phone. Lastly, there are two connectors to the feature boards. One is 11 pins and handles all inputs to the system, the other handles all outputs and is 14 pins.

    There are 3 output modules that are at addresses 0x20,0x21,and 0x22. There are 2 x 8bit channels per module.

Board one is GPIO1 with channel A being mirror control and channel B being window control. Where there are provisions for two mirrors, there is provisions for left/Right front and left/right rear windows.

     The second module mounts on top of first one and except for address is identical to the first. You will note that depending on the vehicle class not all bits in the channels are used. Channel one handles fan speed, defrost, AC, turning on/off the lights and in the case of motor home the leveling jack power. The second channel controls the rad fan, and rad bypass to help control motor cooling, more lights, and in the case of a motor home, the entry step.

     The last output module again is at a different address but this time has marks like (Out 11) that identify output states that either go to the ADC board for motor control or to the base board for charge control. Channel A handles charge Enables and cabin, battery, and Inverter heating (for cold weather). Channel B has provision for a Gen Set on a motor home, and motor related Enables. and that's it for outputs.
   Drive-En has special meaning. First this signal in software prepares the vehicle to be driven. The control signal passes to the traction inverter to turn it on and it also enables the brake vacuum pump, power steering pump and h20 pumps so they are ready as soon as there is a call to move the vehicle.

    Board 4 starts the input side of things. Channel A informs the computer of the status of doors, seat belts and bin doors. Channel B deals entirely with bin doors.

    Board 5 is the last input board in terms of digital inputs. It wires to the cockpit switches for Cruise, brake and E-Brake, left turn, right turn, Hazard, hi-beam, headlight, marker lights, and the fwd or reverse switches. If the gear shift is in neutral or park it is neither fwd or reverse.

     The final module is the ADC module with reads the accelerator pedal, the battery voltage and the temps on one side and controls the motor Inverter on the other side.

Canopy Systems

     The cooling, steering, braking systems and lighting management resides up front in the canopy along with the Motor and Inverter control. As designed, we have Motor Control (Drive-En, Motor-En, RPM value) coming from the ADC board. We also monitor Inverter and Motor temp from the ADC board. We can control the Rad fan and Rad bypass using GPIO-2 outputs and can also heat the Inverter and Motor using GPIO-3 outputs. The base PCB collects rpm ticks from the sensor on the motor shaft.
     GPIO-2 supplies Left-turn, Right-turn, Markers, headlight, Hi-Beam, and Fog lights. These signals are designed to operate 48v 0.02A LED light systems. If the plan is to use 12v incadencent bulbs, 10A relays will be needed. The steering pump, brake vacuum pump and water pump must connect to 12v using Drive-En signal so that operation is on when intending to move the vehicle. The headlight and high beam must use a relay. If motorhome application, the leveler output also needs a relay for the leveler pump. The Brake lights and reverse lights and trailer lights, while not part of the canopy systems will be in the canopy. We added an output to the above specs for sending signals to turn on and off brake lights and reverse lights. In an ICE design water pump, brake vacuum, and pwr steering are the result of the Engine running and in our case will be the result of Drive-En signal since the motor only turns when moving.

Cockpit Systems

      In the cockpit with the driver will be the brake (and switch), E-Brake (and switch), Key switch, a Forward / Reverse switch, and the Potbox (accelerator). None of the high Voltage or High current comes into the vehicle. The dash computer monitors everything. The ignition is locked to on even if the key is removed. If an incorrect password is entered 3 times the computer will issue a shutdown. If the vehicle is in park and the operator selects shutdown it will also shutdown. We need to lock the ignition on until the computer says it's ok to turn off the system. At back we have charge control and Batteries and on the roof the solar arrays. Here to we need more signals. To charge the 48v battery blocks we have a Charge-En but now also need 8x48v blocks in series for 384v and in parallel to charge them. We can do this with a switcher board.
     Items not yet incorporated in the design include keyless entry, cylon eye and electric door locks. Keyless entry and door locks will not be incorporated. Keyless entry needs the computer to be on 24/7 which is a power drain. Adding door locks requires an additional 2 to 4 signals. The cylon roaming eye is a novelty add-on. An anti-theft security system also would need to be an independant Add-on since we don't want to drain our batteries needlessly.
     In an ICE the PCM (power control module) runs from the 12v battery 24/7 and typically draws 0.2 to 0.5 amps continuously. This has been a problem for years as a 65Ah battery with this constant drain can be depleted in as little as 130 hours of not being started. The PCM handles locking doors, unlocking doors, keyless entry, courtesy lights, and security systems. Being an EV we also have a problem since we can't start the vehicle to recharge the battery we would need to charge from solar or some land based power outlet.

Chapter 09 EV Truck Convert: Cockpit and electronics

The new Cockpit:

becomes ...
     The mock-up picture at the top of the page gives the basic idea. With a digital dash, a touch display that is easier to see replaces the mundain grey on grey instrument cluster. The center section is removed as the radio and heating/cooling is handled electronically. Essentially, the entire Dash instrument cluster can be run and tested as a self contained system. We will replace the accelerator with a pot-box foot operated potentiometer, and we leave the brake pedal and E-Brake pedals as is. We lose hundreds of wires to give a nice clean and clear compartment. So for starters we will build the Dash instrument cluster as follows:

Digital Dash

     We want to make a New Digital Dash for a vehicle. So what sort of things should this Dash have. For ease of viewing it should have at least a 10" HDMI displays and full computer control. Obviously it needs to have adjustable brightness for bright daylight and dark night driving. Being 10" displays they will be 8" wide and 6" tall and sit back from the driver. It should control most if not all driving seat adjustments, so it needs Radio control with volume, station, and balance, Heating and A/C adjustment, Mirror adjustment, Pre driving system checks, Back-up camera with rear view capability, possibly a front view dash cam, and be fully Electric Vehicle capable. Optional would be GPS navigation, Bluetooth connectivity for hands free phone use. That's a pretty tall order but lets see what we can do.

     Choosing to have full computer control is most likely to use a Raspberry Pi 3b+ as it has a lot of functionality and is small (credit card sized). A USB mini keyboard gives us the ability to make direct system changes should the need arise. Our Pi computer would mount to the back of the display and light sensors mounted into the frame surrounding the displays would give us the ability to control display brightness automatically. Forward facing dash cam is no problem as it can mount to the back and plug conveniently into Raspberry Pi.

     I2C is a two wire communication protocol that can access and control roughly 128 devices with many of them handling many different functions. So as not to overload the storage capabilities of the Pi, we will use an external usb harddrive for all footage from webcam and Back-up/rear view camera's. Now we will look at how we can implement all the features by the PI computer.

Universal EV conversion

     Lets take a look at it from an operators standpoint. We need to know our speed and whether it is Kph or Mph. The old way was to have a cable from the transmission to the speedometer. The speedometer updated a mechanical odometer in Mph only. A moving needle rotated around to point to tiny numbers. Newer versions used a sensor and moving coil meter in much the same way. And the newest of vehicles have custom dash with speed readout and digital odometer.

Our dash display is a 10 inch touch screen. In the center is a speed readout with numbers around the perimeter. As speed increases the number background turns from Grey to green. two buttons below the speedo select Kph or Mph and automatically adjust the speed numbers and readout to match.

    Above the speedo is left turn and right turn indicators and the current state of the headlights ( on/off/hbeam) and whether cruise is on or off. A Trip odometer and trip reset is below the odometer. Being an electric Vehicle we don't use a gear shift in the usual manor. It's all Electronic. When Ebrake is ON you are in Park. When off you are in neutral. When stopped you can use a switch on the dash to select FWD/REV or the touch screen to switch from FWD or REV. Being an EV means we need to know the state of the Battery and the Inverter temps and Motor temps. Top left shows this. Under that is the current cabin temp and desired cabin temp. And below that we have buttons to control lights using the touch screen.
     To the right is the main menu. It allows you to select different features using the buttons at the bottom, Right now the status display is showing results of the system test. It verifies that it is OK to use the vehicle. One might ask why do we need to verify it is OK to use the vehicle. The answer is simple. The system checks that the dash control system is working, Seat belts are buckled, and the doors closed and eBrake applied before it will allow the motor to function. It is more informative than a check engine light and buzzers. Later you will see how it plays into doing self repairs. For now let's assume it all is OK and so we select Drive On.
The right side changes to the drive screen. At the top is the Dash cam/Backup cam display. Using the Camera button below the display you can view the Dash cam/Backup cam/Info displays. There are also touch buttons to turn on or off Turn signals, Hazard flash, Brakes, and Cruise control. While you still have all these in the car, you may use either the car provided ones or the touch screen ones. In test mode, you can use the Accelerator at the bottom without actually operating the motor.

    There is a Credit card sized computer on the back of the 10 inch Display. It costs an amazing $45 or less and is the heart and brains of the Vehicle. It takes automotive controls and user actions to control the whole vehicle through a simple single board controller I have designed. But more on that later.

     Power first. We need a Battery system that has a certain voltage, specific Amp capacity, which based upon the formula V*A=W we can determine watts of the battery. Using the GVWR or GCWR we can determine the distance we can go. W/1000 = kw, and GVWR/10000 = kWh or kilowatts to move a weight per hour on flat even ground. For my Motor home it was 17500lbs/10000 = 1.75kwh per mile. A car as above is 4000/10000=0.4kwh/m. To deal in KMs take 20*m/12=km.

     So for my Motor home I planned 2 banks of battery at 384v @144A = 55.25kw per bank. 2 * 55.25 = 110.5kw and so @ 1.75kwh/m I should be able to go 65 miles. I used 2 banks because if a bank goes bad you need the ability to keep running and 2 bank @144A = 288A and each bank is lighter. For the Truck we hope to use 2 banks of 84A each = 384v @168A = 64.5kw, 64.5/0.68=94 miles to a charge.

   Charge in and out of the battery is measured in coulombs. 3600coulombs = 1A. So the computer reads the amps per second going into the battery or out of the battery system. It can update in real time the amount of battery left and how much farther you can go. Solar panels on the roof charge the system when there is enough sunlight. For the Motor home it had 57v @ 20Ah charge and for a mini van it can have 57v @ 4Ah of charge. This means a Car would take 8.6 hours. But and there is always a but, both have onboard charging from standard house current so from 120vAC @ 15A = ~37A so the Car improves to 2.35 hours. Changing the charger to run from 230vAC cuts the charge time in half. Tesla charge stations are rapid but risk charging so fast that the batteries can become stressed and fail early.
     Not to fret, most people travel less than 50km in a day and if we go with figures used by the insurance bureaus to compute insurance, 20,000km/y = 54km/day = 33m/day = 40% use or 2.5 hours charge time needed per day.
     For the battery screen we can use battery pack 1 or 2 or both for use in driving. If not using both, the non-enabled one can be solar charged while you drive. Enabling solar charge works if there is enough sunlight. And of course there is 120v AC charge when parked. Selecting shutdown when charging is complete only works on a parked vehicle so you can set to charge while your shopping or at work and the system will shutdown unattended. Ideally, you would disable both batteries for driving and choose Shutdown when complete which disables all vehicle operations during the charge cycle. The values shown on the screen actually come from the config screen. They change as conditions change.

Next up is the heater control screen. It allows changing for comfort and checking on the health of systems.
    Comfort wise you can set fan speed, AC on or off set your desired temperature and choose between degrees in C or F. You can view the temps in the battery packs, motor, inverter. In cold weather the EV systems need heat for optimum functionality until their self generated heat gets too hot then the cooling systems come on to cool them down until they reach minimum ideal temperature.

   Self explanatory here. You press a button to move the mirror to the desired state. Likewise you can open and close 4 different windows.

     Here is a computer control of a Navcon GPS system at the top is the selected road map with map adjustment below. Under that is where you state your starting address and ending address using the provided keys at the bottom. The map shows your start point and end point when your current position allows them to show. Your current position always shows center unless you slide the map using N E W S keys.

   No presumption about there being a radio or not. Using a built in radio module and amplifier operated by this touch screen display, all you add is speakers which usually exist in any donor car being converted.

    Imagine if you will, on your current vehicle, you have a check engine light, battery/alternator light, temperature light and sometimes a little door open indicator. If something goes wrong you need to go to a garage and pay for them to use a OBDCII to read cryptic error codes and reset them after fixing the problem.
     This EV Dash has built in TEST and Report facility. The report facility just tells what the current detected states are. The Test facility here allows you to see 10 categories on the left with currently the window up/down set showing. It is a work in progress as I refine software to match the actual electronics.

     By turning on and off the checkboxes you can confirm that the desired action is being done like moving the mirror left or right or up or down. Turning on or off the park lights, headlights, or seeing that when you press on the brake pedal the automotive control boards sees it. You are having trouble with cruise coming on when you ask for it. So you come here select CTRL (control) and see if the cruise on indicator is on or off. Press Cruise on the steering wheel and see if it shows you pressed the button. If there was nothing happening, check the other cruise related buttons or turn signals or hazard and if they are all dead the cable is likely unplugged. If only one is not working it is likely a broken wire or bad switch.

    Then we have the camera screen to be used only when stopped. If you want to use it while driving, you can’t because that is a huge safety issue.

Two more screens are present but not yet functioning. One is the phone and the other is the Config screen. phone would connect to your phone by bluetouth and config allows all the presets to be set.

Electrical Systems

     The electrical systems of an EV conversion encompass several interconnected things. At the helm is the computer controller which in this case is a Raspberry Pi 3b credit card sized computer. This computer connects by 16 wires to a base PCB. The base PCB also obtains power from the battery packs, and has connections for ignition switch, charge control, RPM tick sensor, I2C accessories, and the input, output, and ADC bits arrays. There is an on board I2C level shifter for comunication. The inputs and ADC bits are provided on a 11 pin header and the outputs on a 14 pin header. As such the first part of the system is the computer and the base distribution system.

To the left is the base PCB. Below are the input and output modules that sit above the base.    There are two input modules and the ADC module in the first stack and three output modules in the second stack. All connections to the modules are at the face edge to the automotive functions they go to. Two headers are on each of these boards. One goes to the previous board and one to the next. So base 11pin connects to input board 1. Input board 1 (second connector) goes to board 2. Board 2 (second connector) goes to ADC board. On the output boards they inter-connect in a similar fashion.
     In such a manor, we can have the entire electronics distribution system in a box about 9" x 6" x 4.5". This makes up the second part of the system. In the engine canopy we have Motor, PWM Inverter, canopy controller, and sense passthrough. The Charge controller mounted at the back of the vehicle which manages 120 AC charge and Solar charge, and finally the batteries with BMS and switching charge control.

Raspberry Pi 3b computer

     This tiny but powerful little computer has 4 usb 2.0, I2C, SPI, RxTx comunication, Ethernet, a 40pin GPIO connection and HDMI is where we will be most concerned with.

Because we added 2 banks of battery, we needed to add a second set of Coulomb Count & Chrg/Drain leaving just 5 GPIO unassigned. A front facing CCM camera connects to the CCM port to provide a dashcam and the rear backup camera talks by bluetooth.

    The Raspberry Pi 3b 40 pin GPIO connector is a very powerful tool in my design. While not all the pins can be used and several are duplicates, there are 17 available and we are only using 7 to 9. The breakdown is as follows:

• 1,17 = +3.3v
• 2,4 = +5v
• 5,9,14,20,25,30,34,39 = GND
• 3,5,27,28 = I2C#1 & I2C#2 we are using only I2C#1 @ 3,5
• 7,19,21,23,24,26 = SPI1 & SPI2
• 13,15 = int4a int4b
• 16,18 = int5a int5b
• 22 = rpm sense
• 29,31 = charge / discharge counting
• 8,10 = Rxd Txd
• 11,12,32,35,36,37,38,40 = GPIO unused

The RPI is powered by the Base PCB that is handling all comunication to the various systems. I2C provides communication to the various systems with pins 13, 15, 16, 18, 22, 29 used as interupts for input changes (int4a int4b int5a int5b), rpm sense, and charge/discharge ticks. pin 31 tells the direction (+)=charge (-)=discharge. During programming the EV system the first of 4 USB ports attaches a keyboard. A second USB port is used for the back camera recording to a flashdrive. The HDMI attaches to the display and a 3rd USB provides touch screen functionality. The DashCam connects to the CCM camera connection. The rear camera is still being worked on.

Base module

     Observing the images below, we can see the base top view, left edge view, and front edge view. Left side back is the power connection with GND, +3.2v, +6.4v, +12v, and +48v. Moving forward we have the ignition switch which turns on the whole system. Ideally the ignition once activated only turns off under computer control. If shut off before the vehicle is safe to shut down, it holds power on until given a shutdown command. Our next connection goes to the Raspberry Pi 3b computer. The last view has the charge controller connector and the RPM sense. Far right is the I2C carry on connector pointing off the right side. This connector is used to add GPS, Bluetooth, and AM/FM Radio to the system.

PCB prints and schematics are available in a separate service booklet.

GPIO - INPUT modules

     The input modules have 16 inputs per module. The first module is at 0x23 and the second one is at 0x24. Each module has a single mcp23017 GPIO-expander chip, with selectable addressing. All connectors have pin 1 designated as the ground pin. The Input boards have a 4 pin connection on the side that provides GND, +5v, +12v, and +48v just in case the need arises. The first input module (0x23) handles seatbelts, doors, and bins. If a door or bin is open that input is grounded. If a seatbelt is unbuckled it is also grounded.
     The second input board connects to the steering wheel cruise control switches, the E-Brake switch, the Brake switch, the left turn, right turn, hazard switches on the column, hbeam, Fwd, Rev, headlight and marker light switches. The switches are actually repurposed to simply toggle between +5v (off) and Ground (on) to tell the computer what the operator has selected. The output board does the actual activating of the feature based upon user manual controls or touch screen selected operation.

ADC module

     The top board on the first stack handles ADC operations. These operations are handled by two IC's. Address 0x28 is the accelerator output to the Motor controller. and address 0x48 is the one that reads the Battery voltage level, Temperatures of the motor, the Inverter, the Batteries, and the cabin. It also reads the accelerator pedal. This gives the computer the means to have both manual and cruise control, and keep the operator informed of the temperatures, and charge state in real time.

     A DS3502 (0x28 address) 7bit digital potentiometer presents the desired speed value to the motor controller. This value is either the value obtained from the accelerator pedal reading or the value set when cruise is enabled. Let us say that 8000 rpm is full speed from the motor and results in 66mph. This potentiometer has 128 increments so when the value is 0 (the first increment), motor rpm = 0 and speed = 0mph. When the value increases to 1, rpm increases to 62.5rpm and speed = 0.51mph. This is of course governed by 3 factors provided by the computer. These factors are DriveEn which powers up the Invertor, MotorEn which allows the motor drive to function, and lastly Fwd/Rev which determines whether to move forward or reverse.
     The ADS7830 8 channel Analog to digital converter, supplies the computer with the battery voltage in the range of 336v to 384v, 4 Temperatures in the range of -60 to 200 degrees F for Motor, Battery, Cabin, Inverter and the read accelerator value 0v to 5v. Each value is in 1024 increments such that battery voltage is in 0.375v increments, Temperatures are in 0.2539 degrees F, and accelerator is 0.00488v = 1/8th of 0.51mph per increment. The computer basically just divides the accelerator value by 8 such that any value below 0.039 = 0.

GPIO - Output modules

     The output modules are far more complex than the input modules. While they still use the mcp23017 chip, with selectable address 0x20, 0x21, and 0x22, they also have optic isolators and pull-up resistors. The expander chips have limited ability to drive heavy loads so the isolators provide both heavy load capability and increased voltage to feature capability.
     For example, the automotive mirror up-down-left-right motors run when 12v is across the windings. The computer commands using 0v or 5v which won't do. So the opto isolator allows the computer to control using 0-5v and the opto drive to use 0-12v. In essence, we get control using solid state rather than relay driven circuits.
     So board 1 is Mirror and Windows. Board 2 is climate control, leveling, and lights. Board 3 is Generator, Drive heating, charging and enabling. There is provision on the board for running the interior fan at 3 speeds for board 2. For board 3 there is provision for a DIP switch to pass Enable signals back to the Base board and subsequently the computer. A Car doesn't use all the outputs. They are there for the Motorhome which needs Leveler control, Entry Step extend and retract, generator start/stop, and so forth. I suppose a Car with a handi-cap Entry Platform could use the leveler or entry step to extend or retract a ramp or lift.

     The output boards are 5.2" wide and 4.4" deep. As it stands, the use of LED lights for markers, brakes, reverse, and signals can be easily accommodated without extra provisions. Headlights are the ones that will need an extra relay. Interior lights, fog lights, maps lights and floor lights can also be LED so don't pose a problem.

EV Connections

     Starting with the Dash, Remove the instrument cluster and modify the dash for the 10" HDMI touch display. Mount the raspberry pi computer to the back of the display. Connect the HDMI cable to the display and raspberry PI. Locate and wire the ignition switch to the base PCB and connect the cable from the raspberry pi 40 pin connector to the base pcb. At this point supplying 6.4v of power to the power connector will allow programming the raspberry pi and testing the raspberry pi comes on with the ignition switch.
     Connect input boards and output boards as indicated. The whole system can be tested at this point. You are looking for input changes to cause interrupts and touch screen actions like turning on and off lights, fan, AC, etc. to result in output state changes. For example see if a pulse shows at the window up/dwn when you try to open or close a window.

     My intended frame work consists of 'L' shaped frame that the display mounts to with the raspberry Pi mounted to the back of the display. The base PCB mounts to the flat part of the frame and connects the to the raspberry Pi 40 pin connector. A 'Z' style frame mounts to the back of the first frame such that the input and output boards can mount to it. At this point you need to deside if you want connections to face back or forward and mount the boards. The two ribbon cables from the base PCB need to feed from behind the Z-frame if the i/o connections face forward, or can pass to the boards from the front if connections face the rear of the assembly.

    There are 110 wire connections going to the various systems of the EVehicle from the input and output boards. My preference is to wire from the boards to a plate with barrier strips on it organized into purposes. Like put two five contact barriers. Wire the 9 pin mirror wires two the two barriers. Now two cables of 5 wires can go to the drivers door and passenger door to connect the mirrors. The same goes for window up and down. Use four three contact barriers supplied by the 9 pin window connector. A 16 contact barrier will suffice for the seat/door/bin inputs.

Three different sizes of display to fit any vehicle.

Systems after this point at not in the cockpit they reside in the canopy, back of vehicle or at various light sockets

EV Charger

     The charge controller takes direction from the dash computer and the AC charge port. The computer provides 4 enables (battery pack 1, battery pack 2, Solar, and AC charge). At the AC charge port there is a microswitch that is activated by inserting the plug into the port. When AC shore power is plugged in, it converts 120v AC to 60v AC and if the computer has issued a 'charge-enable' signal passes that AC voltage on to a full wave bridge rectifier to produce 57v DC for charging. As long as the AC charge cable is plugged in normal vehicle operation is prohibited.
     Roof top solar panels supply power when there is sufficient sunlight also to the charging system. It can also be enabled/disabled from the computer. The 2 battery pack enables determine which battery pack(s) to use.

     It has two coulomb counters. One monitors charging at 57v and the other monitors 384v discharging and regen charging. The charger also handles switching 48v blocks into series for run mode and parallel for charge mode.

Engine compartment (Canopy):

We don't have a clunky engine and transmission so what we are left with are, a wire cable from the battery 384v supply, and a lighter power cable with +48v, +12v, +6.4v, and ground. This lighter cable then splits with one part going to the dash computer and the other to the board depicted below. A 20 pin connector from the computer then wires to this board.

 Down the left side are 8 fuse holders, then 6 relays with their driver circuits. These handle the Rad Fan, Coolant Pump, Coolant bypass, Brake vaccuum, Power steering, Inverter heat, Motor Heat. Moving to the right is 5 more relays with drivers that handle The vehicles lighting needs if you are using Incandescent bulbs. If you are instead using LEDs (recommended), these relays and their circuits can be left out. Then to the right of that are 5 more relay circuits for towing a trailer. They are also not needed if you don't want trailer towing. The last 4 relay circuits are needed for the headlights, Hi-Beams, Fog lights and leveler jack if a motor home application.

EV PWM Motor Inverter & Motor

    The inverter uses the 384v and Ground from the main battery and control from the ADC board. The control is a combination of 2 temperature sensors, a speed (RPM) sensor, a digital speed request, a direction request and 2 enables. The motor enable activates the Inverter placing it in either run or standby. The drive enable turns on the inverter circuit. So with the inverter turned on (drive enable), the inverter goes to standby and presets motional direction to either FWD or REV then begins sampling the digital speed and motor enable. Upon seeing motor enable the inverter generates the PWM and or VFD at the 3 phase motor field wires and motion begins at the requested level.

Chapter 10 EV Truck Software

   As you can appreciate, there was a lot going on in the motor home. We are now dealing with a Truck. We no longer need 2 computers but it still needs the combinational drive and accessory one. We will make use of software structure to gain advantage in the control of the EV.

The Operating System

     The Raspberry Pi uses an ARM processor running a varient of the Linux operating system. It has all the physical features needed, USB, HDMI, GPIO, I2C, 32GB memory and runs Linux as the OS. Ideally, we could use a PC with Linux to develope the app then cross compile x86 to Arm64 to make the final app for the RPI. The most efficient is assembly langauge and produces the smallest and fastest code possible. Python, C and C++ but there is very little documentation on using it with GUI's like opengl and qt or gtk. At the other extreme we have xBasic that is powerful and easy to implement and writes the assembly code for us. We can use 'C' routines for GPIO and I2C operations and it handles Event Driven Programming (EDP) of a GUI with ease. Unfortunately, xBasic won't run on modern Linux because of Dll hell. It works fine in windows based OS but without GPIO and I2C features.
     With Glade we can make a great UI but is very slow as there is no drag and drop widgets. As a work around I made a program in xBasic called MakXml.exe for windows. It can take our fancy UI designs and coding in xBasic and create the Glade UI file or a qt UI file for the GUI stuff and then build a basic structured python or 'C' binding. Once done, Glade can load the file and fine tune it with much more ease.
     With qtdesigner or qtcreator, we also have a great way to make the UI. It is drag and drop like xBasic but has a huge amount of settings to play with for each widget. It is even a slower process to do from scratch. But I have MakXml.exe that greatly simplifies duplicating the xBasic displays as qt-ui files.
     The two GUI approaches (glade|qt) handle the interfaces quite differently, glade uses callbacks like xBasic does where event signals are passed to windows then to grids then to children (widgets) on the grid till it is handled. Qt uses Event Sockets and slots where an event is passed to all widgets weather they are windows, grids, or children that are connected to the socket/slot of the event. So for glade/gtk/xBasic, the window has one main process routine that gets all events, another handler (callback) is called if defined and gets the event(s) which it may or may not handle. Unhandled events come back to the main window handler for final handling. For Qt a click() event may have a list of widgets connected to slots. Each widget checks to see if the click was meant for it and handles it if it was.

For dry test purposes there is a PC work around. It’s a USB GPIO expander that can run under python3 for windows, MacOS, Linux.

CJMCU-FT232H is a single channel USB 2.0 Hi-Speed (480Mb/s) to UART/FIFO IC.  It has the capability of being configured in a variety of industry standard serial or parallel interfaces.

Feature:

• Single channel USB to serial / parallel ports with a variety of configurations.
• Entire USB protocol handled on the chip. No USB specific firmware programming required.
• USB 2.0 Hi-Speed (480Mbits/Second) and Full Speed (12Mbits/Second) compatible.
• Multi-Protocol Synchronous Serial Engine (MPSSE) to simplify synchronous serial protocol (USB to JTAG, I2C, SPI (MASTER) or bit-bang) design.
• UART transfer data rate up to 12Mbaud. (RS232 Data Rate limited by external level shifter).
• USB to asynchronous 245 FIFO mode for transfer data rate up to 8 Mbyte/Sec.
• USB to synchronous 245 parallel FIFO mode for transfers upto 40 Mbytes/Sec
• Supports a proprietary half duplex FT1248 interface with a configurable width, bi-directional data bus (1, 2, 4 or 8 bits wide).
• CPU-style FIFO interface mode simplifies CPU interface design.
• Fast serial interface option.
• FTDI's royalty-free Virtual Com Port (VCP) and Direct (D2XX) drivers eliminate the requirement for USB driver development in most cases.
• Adjustable receive buffer timeout.

D0 to D3 are used to configure I2C or SPI in MPSSE mode.

In addition to the serial protocol pins above, the MPSSE mode allows you to control other pins as general purpose digital inputs or outputs. These are great for controlling chip select, reset, or other lines on chips. You can even use the GPIO to read switches, blink LEDs, and more!

The pins which are controllable as GPIO in MPSSE mode are D4 to D7 and C0 to C7 ,for a total of 12 GPIO pins. These pins can be configured individually as digital inputs or outputs.

• 3,5 = I2C communication D0+D1,D2
• 13,15 = int4a int4b D4,D5
• 16,18 = int5a int5b D6,D7
• 22 = rpm sense C0
• 29,31 = charge / discharge counting C1,C2,C3,C4

So we have 7 pins needed (9 if using 2 Coulomb counters) to test the software GPIO control and 2 pins for I2C communication.

Adafruit Blinka: a CircuitPython Compatibility Library

Enter Adafruit Blinka. Blinka is a software library that emulates the parts of CircuitPython that control hardware. Blinka provides non-CircuitPython implementations for board, busio, digitalio, and other native CircuitPython modules. You can then write Python code that looks like CircuitPython and uses CircuitPython libraries, without having CircuitPython underneath.

There are multiple ways to use Blinka: 

• Linux based Single Board Computers, for example a Raspberry Pi
• Desktop Computers + specialized USB adapters
• Boards running MicroPython

Desktop Computers 

On Windows, macOS, or Linux desktop or laptop ("host") computers, you can use special USB adapter boards that that provide hardware pins you can control. These boards include MCP221A and FT232H breakout boards, and Raspberry Pi Pico boards running the u2if software. These boards connect via regular USB to your host computer, and let you do GPIO, I2C, SPI, and other hardware operations.

The I2C interface connects to the base board and the base board connects to 2 input boards, 3 output boards, 1 ADC board, 1 fm radio, and 1 GPS modules.